Eighty percent of women wear the wrong bra size.

This statistic has been touted for decades, according to a New York Times article. While that same article challenges this measurement and the idea that there is one “right size,” it does acknowlege ill-fitting bras are a common problem.

You deserve to find a comfortable bra. “We wear it for so long and all day,” says Amelia Newman, Intimates Technical Designer at Adore Me, a women’s intimates brand based in New York. “And it’s not [like] just a sweater that you throw on. It’s a garment that’s doing something.”

We talked to Newman to discover how to find a bra that feels good on your body.

What does ABCD stand for in bra size?

First, let’s go over the basics. Your bra size is made up of your band size and your cup size. According to British lingerie brand Katherine Hamilton, the band size refers to the size of your rib cage and is represented by numbers (32, 34, 36, etc.). The cup size refers to the difference between your rib cage measurement and your bust measurement. This tells you how much bigger your breasts are than your rib cage (not simply the size of your breasts) and is represented by letters (A, B, C, etc.).

How do I measure my bra size at home?

To find your bra size, you’ll need to separately determine your band size and cup size using a soft tape measurer. You’ll want to do this while wearing a non-padded bra.

First, find your band size. Wrap the soft tape measurer around your rib cage. Place the ends of the tape measurer under the folds of your breasts, where the underwire of a bra would go, and keep the tape parallel to the ground. Take a few deep breaths, and record your rib cage's measurement while inhaling. According to Newman, measuring on an inhaled breath will help make sure your bra doesn’t feel too tight when you breathe.

Next, find your cup size. Wrap the soft tape measurer around your back and place the ends of the tape at the fullest part of your bust. This is usually at the nipples, but not always, says Newman. Again, you want to keep the tape parallel to the ground. Take a few deep breaths, and record the measurement when the tape feels snug but not too tight. Here, you want a bit of a tighter fit than the band.

Here’s the thing, what measurements translate to which bra sizes vary across brands. “Unfortunately, there’s not a universal thing, which is super frustrating for everyone that buys clothes,” says Newman.  Look at the size guide of the brand that you’re buying from, and see what size you are based on your measurements.

How do I find a bra that fits?

Newman highly suggests ordering multiple sizes when bra shopping online. “It’s so personal, … keep an open mind to try on a few sizes … try the sister sizes and maybe you’re going to like the fit better.” Sister sizes refer to bra sizes that have the same volume in the cup but a different band size. For example, 34B and 32C are sister sizes.

Sister sizes are helpful if you are sensitive to tightness around the band or the size of your rib cage is changing. Keep in mind that if you need a smaller band, go up in the cup letter. If you need a larger band, go down in the cup letter. So, for example, if the band feels too small while wearing a 32C, then try on a 34B. You can refer to this chart to understand sister sizes further.

Ultimately, what matters is that you find a bra that feels good. Newman adds, “There is no exact right or wrong for how you want to wear the bra.”

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